[Whitby Travel Diary] From Dracula Ruins to Jet Jewels — A Day Exploring Whitby’s Many Facets
“Whitby? Just a quiet seaside village with a beach, right?” I thought so too — until we arrived. As we settled in, I realised this town holds far more than sandy shores. Whitby is steeped in Gothic lore, maritime heritage, and unexpected treasures. Let me take you through our day — from Dracula ruins to jet jewellery, through alleys and sea air.
Gothic Ruins & Dramatic Skies
We began with the iconic Whitby Abbey, perched high on the cliffs. The ruins stand solemn in daylight, but as dusk approaches, their presence becomes hauntingly vivid. The wind whipped around us, sea spray drifting up from below — it felt like stepping into a novel.
The Abbey is no mere backdrop; it’s a character. Built between the 13th and 15th centuries, it’s one of the very places Bram Stoker drew inspiration for Dracula. Standing there, I understood how he could picture vampires arriving under moonlight among those ancient stones.
The 199 Steps & Church Next Door
Leaving the Abbey gate, I looked up — and there it was: St Mary’s Church, right in front of us! I blinked. I hadn’t realised how close the two attractions are, until I stood there, hearing gulls cry and wind tug at my hair.
The famous 199 steps connect the town with the clifftop. We descended from the Abbey rather than climbing — partly from fatigue, partly from wanting to linger. Through the day, the route was busy — tourists, families — but stepping aside into quiet corners felt like discovery.
From Streets to Gems — Jet & Colourful Shops
In the town, I was captivated by shops painted in cheerful hues, windows filled with scones, fudge, and Whitby Jet — that glossy black fossil jewellery. Jet is organic, born from prehistoric tree resin under pressure over millions of years. It became particularly popular during Queen Victoria’s mourning period, and to this day, local artisans sell carved jet into rings, brooches, necklaces.
We wandered alleys and found so many tempting treats. A fudge shop struck me — the soft caramel-sweet smell invited us in. Each shop seemed to tell a story: a little shop of gothic curios, another full of seaside charms, another dedicated to marine souvenirs.
Harbour, Boats & Coastal Rhythm
We reached Whitby Marina next. Boats bobbed gently, and along the pier were small vessels offering sea trips — some pirate-styled, some simple cruises. One 20-minute trip cost just £5 for adults, and free for kids. No need to book: just walk up, check the timetable, hop on. Kimchi’s eyes lit up at the sight of themed boats.
The town blends coastal life with heritage. Whitby is where England’s major coastal trails meet, like the England Coast Path and Cleveland Way, so walking along cliff edges, feeling sea spray on your face, is part of the town’s rhythm. We even spotted wire sculptures of fishermen — part of the local Heritage Sculpture Trail* by Emma Stothard — celebrating this fishing town’s stories.
Captain Cook’s Early Lessons
Higher up, we found the Captain Cook Memorial with the North Sea behind him. Cook, the legendary navigator, learned his seamanship in Whitby. I felt goosebumps imagining a young ship’s apprentice walking these same cobbled streets.
If time allows, the Captain Cook Memorial Museum is nearby — in what was once his apprenticeship house — filled with maps, log books, tools. Unfortunately we didn’t get there that day, but it’s definitely on my list for next time.
Seaside Moments & Final Struggles
Next, we descended to Whitby Beach – sand, cliffs, and waves all in one frame. Chloe and other children ran along the wet sand, chasing foam. I stood at the boundary where rock meets sea and thought: this place is postcard — but also real life.
When it was time to leave, we faced the climb back. The 199 steps were crowded, so we opted for a steeper path beside them. My legs ached, sweat beaded — but the view at the top made it worth every gasping breath. On the way up, I joked: “At this age, exploring with kids means your body must sign up too.”
Why Whitby Stays With You
That day we touched Gothic myth, seaside simplicity, ancient faith, and modern laughter. We held jet jewellery in our palms, listened to gulls, watched boats, climbed steps, savoured fish & chips, and gazed at cliffs smoothed by millennia of sea. Whitby isn’t just a dot on the map — it’s a layered story of history, life, legend, and heart.
If you’re thinking of coming, don’t just stick to the beach. Walk those steps. Visit the Abbey and church. Hunt for jet. Let the wind tell you stories. I promise — you won’t see Whitby the same way again.